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ACT Companion Dog Club
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Principles of Training
Motivational Training
This Club believes that the vast majority of dogs can be trained easily and with minimum stress for the dog and the handler by using MOTIVATIONAL methods. This simply means using the carrot rather then the stick as a teaching method. As the name implies, motivational training relies on motivating the dog to want to do as it is asked (rather than being compelled to do as it is told) by rewarding appropriate and desirable behaviour - that is if the dog does something that is followed by a pleasant experience it is more likely to repeat this behaviour again. Motivational training uses techniques that follow least harm strategies (particularly for people training a dog for the first time) - if you get it wrong you get a disobedient dog that still loves you (rather than a disobedient dog that is afraid of you). For many dogs food is the primary motivator (what really turns them on) but toys, balls, pats or just about anything that the dog finds rewarding can be used.
A dog trained motivationally will often offer behaviours when presented with a new learning situation. They are more likely to want to try different things because they are rewarded once they get it right (remember incorrect behaviour is ignored ... not corrected). Training is fun for both the dog and handler. By contrast, a dog trained by compulsive methods is less likely to try different things (because they get punished whenever they get something wrong) ... they do not want to learn new things and training is almost always confrontational. A dog trained this way will do just enough to avoid punishment or to effect the removal of a negative reinforcer.
However, motivational training does not mean that you let your dog do whatever
it pleases. In your everyday relationship with your dog it is extremely important
that you should behave as a dog expects a leader (alpha) to behave. Otherwise,
in the absense of a strong leader, the dog may decide to become the leader
itself. You will be given a handout which details how to assert yourself as
the dog's natural leader ... without being confrontational. These techniques
are all based on the way that the leader of the wolf pack behaves. If your
dog has accepted you as the leader then it will have sufficient respect for
you to want to learn from you and the training will be easier.
Motivators
To train your dog in a positive way you must first find out what turns your particular dog on. Many dogs respond to food, whilst others will work harder for the reward of a play with a toy such as a ball, a rope or a squeaky toy. Some lucky people have dogs who will do anything for a soft word or a caressing touch. These rewards are known as motivators and there are general points to remember about their use.
- They need to be under the control of the handler. If the dog thinks it can snatch the food or ball from your hand it will not make progress with learning a new behaviour. Many people find that food is best kept in a bag around their waist, where it is very accessible and yet unavailable to the dog. One piece at a time can be kept ready in a closed fist.
- Mostly the reward has to be fairly small though sometimes a jackpot can be given for a special effort by the dog, or when the dog first learns a new behaviour.
- The motivator has to be something the dog likes. You may find it necessary to vary the motivator from time-to-time ... even the nicest food can become a bit boring if offered continually.
- It is important to accompany the reward with verbal praise to avoid the situation developing where the dog will only work in the presence of the motivator (i.e. food or the toy).
- heir use has to be well timed. At first the motivator can be used to lure the dog into performing a behaviour (i.e. sit or heel). Then it can be offered immediately after the dog performs the behaviour (rewarding).
- When teaching a dog a new exercise the reward is used every time. However, once the dog has learned what you are trying to teach it then a variable schedule should be introduced (i.e. rewards can given randomly or used for a particularly good response which is useful for shaping a more precise performance).
Food is generally the easiest reward to use, both because most dogs respond positively to it and it can be used easily in a class situation. There are many reasons why a dog will not be interested in food (or any motivator) while at the Club ... there are too many other interesting things for the dog to see, do and smell. For this reason, you need to find a really good motivator and continue to train your dog in a more sedate environment (i.e. at home).
If your dog has a favourite ball or toy, then you can reserve this as a motivitor
for training times only ...that is you get it out when you start training and
you put it away after training (the dog doesn't get to keep it). With food,
try a variety of different foods to keep your dog motivated ... dried meat
strips or liver, cheese, and the ever popular chicken are all good choices;
whereas dried kibble is not too exciting for most dogs.
Voice
Your most important piece of equipment. In the early stages of training you are using your motivator and lead to teach your dog to take notice of you, so it is essential that you do use your voice as well as a motivator and pats. You need to develop three contrasting tones of voice:
- cues/commands positive (firm but not angry)
- praise calm (soft and pleasant)
- scolding deep growly tone (only used when dog is doing something really
wrong - use 'No' or 'Aahh' not the dogs name)
Collars & Leads
Most dogs can be trained using a soft collar (normal buckle or fixed collar), although they may occasionally slip over the dog's head if not correctly sized. A better option is the collar known as the 'half-slip', martindale or 'gentle collar' which is adjustable to the size of the dog's neck. Owners of stronger and more boisterous dogs may prefer to use a head collar (Gentle Leader or Halti)or a non-pull harness (Sporn harness), both of which should be fitted by an instructor and used only until the desired behaviour is consistently given.
Leads may be single or double, leather or webbing, with a clip strong enough for your dog. Small or timid dogs do not need double leads as the double clips may disturb them. Large strong dogs and dogs wearing head collars may be easier to control on a double lead.
If you have any questions about any equipment then please ask your instructor or approach the Session Manager for advice.
Sport and Recreation ACT
providing much appreciated financial assistance
Canberra, ACT, Australia